Wednesday, September 30, 2015

On closing this chapter

Tomorrow I leave the island...

I’ve never had this feeling when leaving a place, especially a place that I have come to call home. I don’t have adequate words to describe it. Sure, I was sad when I left my family in the United States to come to the Peace Corps, but I always knew it was only two years. No, I didn’t want to say goodbye to my best friends who were going forth into the world in inconveniently disparate locations, but it wasn’t the same emotion as I’m feeling now, as I prepare to make the trip back in the opposite direction. Even if I do come back, it will never be the same, I won’t be able to spend days on doñas porches, lazy Sundays doing laundry and cooking with Luisa, Mondays on the beach, Saturdays watching Don Francisco with Mama Julia, hot afternoons in plastic chairs catching a breeze, evenings dancing with neighbors in the street. I won’t ever live here again. I say it over and over and it still seems like a distant thought, something I still have to prepare to accept, but it's happening now. Part of this finality seems like attending yet another funeral, as if my life were a person about to be boxed up and stuck in the ground, taken away for good. And yet, unlike a funeral, I got the opportunity to say what I wanted to those I will miss, I got to give them their last hug and parting words.  

“Closure” is the word Peace Corps throws around at conferences, workshops and casual conversations. “How’s the closure going? Make sure you get closure, it will help you readjust to life back in the United States.” Yeah, I guess that’s the word for part of this feeling, but equating it with something neat and tidy like closing a chapter of a book doesn’t come close to what I feel. One emotion I feel is profound astonishment, the same feeling I get when I watch a Manzanillo sunset from the top of my host mom Wendy’s roof looking out over the place I where I have had extremely challenging times and gotten through them...looking out over the place I’ve made a home and life for myself in...where I've loved people so much it hurts...trying to soak in the complexity of the feeling of awe bubbling up when I look over town.

And on that same roof, looking out, I also have a feeling of completeness, it was the same vantage point I experienced at the beginning and thought to myself “There is no fucking way I am going to be able to do this.” It always seems impossible until it’s done. The overwhelming sensation of “done” keeps hitting me over and over. I wish I could bottle up all the sunsets I have left and be able to open up each bottle of sunset and drink it when I need this feeling of deep satisfaction. I’m on this other end of this crazy ride, I did it! I try to make the contentedness last. But then there was an exhausting week of inevitable goodbyes, tears, parting words, celebrations, dinners, hugs and explanations. I had to keep reminding myself to just power through, hold on to it while I could, “drink it all up, Bea, it’ll be over all too soon.” 

And then I left. And now I have to remember that the sun will continue to rise and set here without me. My students will graduate from high school and if they’re lucky, they’ll move to the city and get a degree. My women will continue their lives, adding grandchildren by the handful. Some will probably die before I have the chance to come back. Life continues even if I'm not ready for it.

But I feel whole.

I have labored over the past two years to bring change to a small community in the Dominican Republic, but that was only on the surface. I have struggled with problems I never knew existed much less how to solve. I have had my beliefs and moral compass turned around so many times it was often hard to see which way was up. I’ve been pushed to see right as wrong and wrong as right and now believe there isn’t an absolute definition of either. I understand another culture in the deepest of ways. I have learned to be more extroverted, outgoing and open. I’ve become a better person, a stronger individual, a more worthwhile citizen of the world. I’ve had so much shared with me from people who had no reason to love me at first. When I leave on Thursday, not all of me will come with; a part of my heart will forever stay in the Dominican Republic with people who ended up changing me.

Thank you sincerely for following along on my journey through the Dominican Republic. Stay tuned for the upcoming dispatches from Panama and as always, I send my love! 

Xoxox, Bea

My women's group in Copey presented me with a framed plaque to thank me for two years of hard work and spoke beautiful words complete with a personalized prayer.
My final goodbye lunch with my Copey family. On the menu: Goat(!!), potato salad, rice and beans with beer for dessert
Goodbye dinner with some of my paramedics. On the menu: Pasta and potatoes with white sauce and oatmeal cookies for dessert...mmmm
My host mom and dad in Manzanillo celebrate their 25th wedding anniversary with a blowout wedding. Wedding night! On the menu: pork, potato salad, eggplant, potato lasagna, cake
Then it was my last night and we started to prepare a stew (me and momma Luisa)
y goodbye from the neighborhood. On the menu: Chicken stew with avocado cooked a la improved cookstove
Goobye from my original host family from the capital I went back to visit. On the menu: Bollos or tamale like things 
Me saying goodbye to baby Eudis. On the menu: baby drool

Monday, September 14, 2015

On big news in my life!

Happy Monday! 

I would like to let you in on some exciting news!!! I have been invited to extend my service with Peace Corps in Panama! I accepted a position with Peace Corps Response, a branch of Peace Corps that sends Returned volunteers (who completed their original 27-month service) on high-impact, 3 to 12 month assignments to provide targeted assistance in places where they are needed most. I will be developing a community health worker training for an organization called Floating Doctors. Currently, the medical relief organization operates a health system in 22 indigenous communities in the islands called Bocas del Toro in northern peninsula of Panama (by the Costa Rican border), but they do not have local health workers involved with them and hence they're trying to develop a robust curriculum to train locals to be in charge of their own health care. This is an AWESOME opportunity! I get to expand on what I have been doing here with Trek Medics and my women's group to provide a solid deliverable for the organization and build-capacity in marginalized indigenous communities. 

I leave the DR on October 1st and negotiated for four weeks of vacation at home before heading down to Panama at the end of October. I’ll be there for ten months, back to the homeland by August! Am I excited? Of course! I know it was the right decision for me to have made, and now that I made it, I am content to know that it’ll be my next move. Panama will be ready for me in time, I just get to enjoy my time left here. So that’s what’s up for the next few weeks and the good news for you, dear readers, is that you won’t have to say goodbye to my mensajes just yet, you get a whole other year with me and my musings!

This week, let’s take a reflective journey back to the beginning. These are short, selected excerpts from some of the most important entries I’ve written in the past two years and tell a tale of my growth and transformation over time. Enjoy!

August 20, 2013: It all began
Hello friends and family! For some of you, it's been quite a while since we last spoke and you might be wondering what in the world I've been up to. Well, I'm currently sitting in a hotel in Georgetown, DC as I prepare to depart for 27 months of service with the Peace Corps in the Dominican Republic! The last few weeks have been a crazy mess of packing, spending time with friends and family, and saying the inevitable goodbyes. Everyone has been asking me how I feel about leaving. Well, I feel great! I am nervous and excited and everything in between. I'm a bit anxious but I suppose that's to be expected. I'm trying not to over think the process.

August 28, 2013: I'm convinced I'll never learn Dominican Spanish
My family is super patient with me because Dominican Spanish is tough! When we are all together for meals, I hardly understand a word of their chitter chatter. Dominicans tend to drop the “s” off of every word and condense important words to speed up their speaking. Not to mention the millions of words from Spain that are unrecognizable here and vice versa. According to my host family, I can manage the language well...but little by little I will pick up Dominican words, and against my will, the accent.

October 28, 2013: I arrive to Manzanillo and realize I’m in over my head
To date, training has been pretty fun and very rewarding as I've spent everyday with fellow Americans and on a strict schedule learning technical health skills I knew I would be applying someday soon in the vague future. Since arriving in Manzanillo, I've been the only American around which leaves me exhausted and brain dead from continuously sticking my hand out and introducing myself to crowds of strangers and thinking in another language. The lack of schedule has given me an abundance of free time with which I've gone on runs, done yoga, read two books, sat on doñas' porches and drank more coffee than any human should ever ingest (even more than during finals period in college). It's now up to me to make my own schedule but its proving difficult when being new in town doesn't exactly lend itself to knowing where to go and who to meet. I'm not worried about finding my groove here though, I'm cut out for awkward small talk!

February 4, 2014: I reflect on the passage of time
Time here is not measured or kept in minutes, but in how many chairs one can add to add to a growing group on the street and how many stories you share with friends in a long, lazy afternoon. This is a country where yelling from across the house is the only way to call someone’s attention and whispering should never be done. One can scold a friend’s child herself, or take said child for a walk, motorcycle ride, or ice cream at any time of day without warning. I can show up at a neighbors, friends, grandma’s or the mayor’s house unannounced, and if I don’t stop by at least once a day, I’m in trouble. The sum of these small parts creates a beautiful reality - one I am thankful to be living.

May 5, 2014: I get a bike!
Now that I have my bike, it makes traveling around my town, visiting doñas and running errands so much easier. I don’t know how I survived so long without one.

November 13, 2014: I’m over the hump!
I’m at this really awesome in-between point in my service. I’m over the hump of my first year and well into my second year. It’s particularly awesome because I’m at this crazy moment where the old volunteers (who swore in a year before me) have left and now the new volunteers (who swore in a year after me) have moved to their sites and are starting the long daunting process of integrating, starting groups, teaching women and youth, and navigating professionally in totally distinct culture. And here I am, settled in and chugging along.

January 5, 2015: I recap 2014
I had a really great 2014! I overcame hurdles I once thought impossible, grew professionally and personally, and learned more about international development than I ever could have working in an office. A lot of the work I did was for my community, yes, but a lot of the work I did in the Peace Corps last year was for me. I’ve had what I consider to be a successful service so far, I’ve graduated my women and youth groups, constructed many improved cookstoves, begun to implement an emergency medical system, and taught a few English classes. I’ve checked off the boxes Peace Corps set for me. But I did a lot for myself too. I learned how to dance bachata, grew to like children (a valuable skill that was at first met with much resistance), practiced hours and hours of yoga and meditation, exercised daily, took beach days and visited friends around the country, found myself a Dominican family, read fifty books and learned all the words to Miley Cyrus’s new CD Bangerz. To me, these are accomplishments that deserves celebrating in addition to my professional achievements.

January 10, 2015: I learn to accept discomfort
Peace Corps is a two-year exercise into the depths of discomfort. In 2014, I turned alone time into a coping mechanism for that discomfort. And at first it was awkward and the hardest thing I ever had to do was spend four, five or six hours alone. But, I’ve really taken control of it. I’m better at setting goals, holding myself accountable, being patient (still working on it). I have become the ruler of my own mind, which sounds maybe like a lame thing to work on for an entire year, but it wasn’t. It took 17 months of Peace Corps service to get here and yes, I’m still working on it, but my alone time is no longer uncomfortable and awkward, it’s a shiny new tool for my life toolbox.

March 16, 2015: I find simple joys
Sure there are times when I’m frustrated here, but more and more lately, I find myself smiling. Just finding these beautiful moments and grinning to myself like I’m the only one who’s been told a secret. I have my own inside jokes that light me up inside and I spread an outward grin. Sometimes my grin comes out when I’m eating rice and beans and thinking to myself "Damn these are tasty", or when my little adopted daughter calls me Beita, which means “Little Bea,” an affectionate derivative of my name. It appears on my face when a doña gives me coffee and already knows I take it without sugar, when I learn all the words to a bachata song and sing it out loud to amazed spectators, when I spend the entire month of February memorizing the words to the DR’s national anthem and get it right just in time for Independence Day! I smile when watching kids invent baseball games with plastic bottles and dirty socks, being told I'm a good dancer, not feeling awkward at 24-hour funerals,  realizing how fully I can express myself in Spanish and being called a tiguera. For these and so many more precious small moments everyday, I smile.

May 12, 2015: I become a reader
Books are an integral part of my service. I love the mornings, my time to sit on the porch with a cup of coffee and read while simultaneously watching neighborhood kids play baseball in the streets, the chicken lady slaughter her daily dose of pollo and feel the sea breeze. I wasn't much of a reader before Peace Corps, but this is the best quality reading time I'll ever have in my life so why not pick up a hobby!

June 8, 2015: I find the love of my service
I don't like children. When my brother had friends over when we were younger, I looked for any excuse to leave the house. Babies make me cringe and I don't have patience to teach the alphabet. All that changed with Gisaury...

June 16, 2015: My students die in a tragic car accident
Yes, today was better, every day it's getting better, it’s been three days. I don’t know what tomorrow brings, but I’ll be okay, humans are resilient, especially in the face of tragedy, we all just need our time, there's no one right way to grieve. We were a community before, but we’ve come together now, and will emerge stronger. We have to, for Enmanuel and Yunior, we will. I hope the visions and nightmares of that night go away, but there are some sights that cannot be unseen. Instead I’ll try to remember their smiling faces, tiguere spirits and raucous laughter because that’s what they deserve. May they rest in peace.

August 3, 2015: I feel grateful
When you’ve watched community members struggle to put food on the table, or give away everything to help their children go to school, you will learn that the world is a far more complicated place than you ever could have imagined. You will understand how fortunate you are to be able to live and serve in your community and appreciate everything you left behind to be able to do so. You will appreciate the phone calls you can make to home, the laughter of a child, the deliciousness of a homecooked meal, the beauty in human connections, the love of a family and the endless sources of joy in the world. After serving in the Peace Corps, nothing you look at can ever again be seen through the same lenses. When you milk your first cow for fresh milk, see your first live birth, and teach a child to say please and thank you, you will understand the simple things that make life so very worth living.

September 2, 2015: How I changed during my service
Physically: I’ve got better flow, shave my legs and wear lipstick. I can wiggle really good and my butt jiggles more. Practically: I’m better at sweeping, killing spiders, reading and speaking Spanish. I spend less time washing my hair and more time drinking coffee. Personally: I can take on the world! I love this country with all my might, I’ve build my self-confidence and taken risks and I certainly learned to appreciate the moments when I transitioned from surviving to living to loving my life here!!!

So there you have it, a journey from then til now. I can’t thank you all enough for following along and I can’t wait to keep in touch and see what the next year abroad brings!

Wednesday, September 2, 2015

On my magazine interview

I’d like to share with you a recent survey I just completed for the Peace Corps DR’s bi-annual magazine called the Grinto Grita. Each finishing volunteer has the opportunity to submit this in the hopes their legacy and/or thoughts/ideas will live on in the memories of younger volunteers who read the much anticipated magazine with vigor. I’ve edited this version for understandability to the friends and family back home but the unedited version comes out next week!


Name: Bronwen “Bea” Raff

Nicknames: Tiguerasa, Lambona, Bolera, Chapiadora

Where are you from in Nueba Yol?: Potato country

Site location: Underrated beachfront property on the farthest forgotten corner in the northwest

Program: Health

Project assignment: Create and graduate a women and youth group, then make them sustainable

Project reality: Everything but the kitchen sink: Concerned community member, doña whisperer, compartir superhero, test kitchen for doñafood, tiguere trainer, token guest weddings, baptisms and funerals, first aid/sex-ed/aerobics/English teacher, crazy condom-giving blondie and stove building master.

Most useful thing brought into country: Transition lenses and my deep knowledge of Dominican culture from SB 2k11 #integrated

Least useful thing brought into country: A solar shower and clothes for a two-year camping trip

Best "I-know-I'm-in-Peace-Corps-now" moment: Arriving to our Community Based Training site of ten houses and no cell service and thinking, where the hell am I?! …and later realizing we were only 20 minutes from the capital.

I felt most integrated into Dominican culture when: When I could sit comfortably in silence for hours, tell which plastic chairs were high quality, eat cow foot without gagging, rock a crop top and litter casually.

Most memorable illness or injury: That time after Thanksgiving 2013 when I needed an extra day at the Yu for medical purposes and begged six people to stay with me in the world’s smallest single room for moral support only to find out later that my technical diagnosis was “dry eyes.”

Most Dominican habit you’ll take home with you: Wearing vibrant combinations of leggings, crop tops and lipstick. Saying fuaketyfua,clawaa and pran to tell animated stories. WhatsApping Jesus quotes, turning up my music way too loud, saying GOD BLESS YOU and GREETINGS to full rooms and buses, drinking road sodas, giving candy to children and taking rides from strangers...oh, wait, half of these are illegal in America.

Most beautiful place in country: 1) El Moro, Montecristi: because it’s our own private beach and where I learned to love my bffs Julie, Andy and Lauren. 2) Top of Pico Duarte: even in the rain at 5am without being able to see ten feet ahead, making it to the top of the 79thhighest mountain in the Carribbean is a beautiful thing. 3) Whale watching in Samana because even though it’s a slow sport, any time I’m in a boat with Grel, good things happen. 4) The red bridge in Santiago: because it means I’m going to Dante’s house 5) Anywhere in a private vehicle with air conditioning because this whole island is one big paradise!

Most creative way you killed time in site: Plucked my eyebrows, adopted a “daughter” and spent months curing her insatiable case of lice, snorkeled in the reef, gossiped with my doñas, voice-noted Chaz/Grel/Andyx2/Jessie/Sofia/Julie, lured and captured tigueres, made really bad food and shared it with neighbors, trolled my neighborhood in search of girls to do my hair and danced for the cockroaches.

Best transportation story: It was the night I should have died. I was on the 25A bus route on my second week in country and realized we were not on a 10B bus route and wouldn’t be able to get off at the gas station because the bus was heading up the overpass, not under. So, only two days after learning that you can scream “LEAVE ME HERE” to get off a bus I tried it out in the middle of four lanes of traffic at 10pm. Everyone on the bus said, “ARE YOU SURE WHITE GIRL?” and I replied, “¡YES, STOP!” which was, of course, in the middle of traffic on the freeway in the dark. No one on the bus thought I’d make it through the night, but I’m still here!

What Spanish word or phrase have you made up during your service and what does it mean?: When I don’t know the correct tense or ending, I mumble really hard so I sound like an unintelligible native and no one notices I actually have no idea what I’m saying.

How have you changed during your service?: Physically: I’ve got better flow, shave my legs and wear lipstick. I can wiggle really good and my butt jiggles more. Practically: I’m better at sweeping, killing spiders, reading and speaking Spanish. I spend less time washing my hair and more time drinking coffee #priorities Personally: I can take on the world baby!

If your service were a book, what would its title be?: Tigueraje for Dummies.

What are the top three books, TV shows, movies, podcasts, or other media you would recommend?: Books: My Beloved World by Sonia Sotamayor, Wild by Cheryl Strayed and Lean In by Sheryl Sandberg, TV: The Mindy Project, House of Cards and Orange is the New Black. Podcasts: Serial, Yoga Downloads and the Ted Radio Hour.

What are you glad you did here?: From the top: 1) Made my mistakes in Community Based Training 2) Embraced country Spanish 3) Did a 30-day challenge to stay in site (twice) 4) Made Dominican best friends 5) Grew to love children 6) Started a secondary project that fulfilled me and not just my Peace Corps requirements 7) Ate fried cheese when I wanted to 8) Climbed Pico Duarte 9) Became “pure Dominican” and 10) Blogged It Home.

What do you wish you had done here?: Got notches cut out of my eyebrows, learned all the words to the Dominican National Anthem (not just half), tried harder to convince my family to visit and learned to cook rice and beans.

What will you miss six months from now?: The endless music, dancing and drinking. The confidence and flow of a tiguere and dressing like a tiguera. Fried bananas and fried cheese as an acceptable and nutritious meal. The predictability of Dominicans. My beach, my family, my people, my communities, my daughter, Gissaury. The concept of greeting people, giving things and sharing time as legitimate ways to spend a day of work.

What will you appreciate more six months from now: I will appreciate a dating population that has teeth and can read, AC, dishwashers, kale, being able to drink shower water and using something other than bug spray for perfume.

Advice to a new volunteer: Unlock your iPhone and get Whatsapp ASAP. Perform at the Thanksgiving talent show. If it’s tasty, enjoy it. Go to the salon often and always bring a beer. Get fake nails at least once. Learn to dance salsa. Love this country with all your might! Build your self-confidence and take risks because there’s no better time and place to do it. Don’t become stuck-up or checked-out – kick ass ‘til the end. Appreciate the moments when you transition from surviving to living to loving your life here!!!

Tuesday, September 1, 2015

On the books I've read

Books are an integral part of my service. I love the mornings, my time to sit on the porch with a cup of coffee and read while simultaneously watching neighborhood kids play baseball in the streets, the chicken lady slaughter her daily dose of pollo and feel the sea breeze. I wasn't much of a read-for-fun kind of girl before Peace Corps, but this is the best quality reading time I'll ever have in my life so why not pick up a hobby! Beats time spent lamenting slow internet.  

Here's a list of the books I read during 27 months of Peace Corps Dominican Republic service PLUS the ones I've read in my 10 months of Peace Corps Response Panama. My favorites are stared!

1) Gone Girl by Gillian Flynn

2) Tiny Beautiful Things: Advice on Life and Life from Dear Sugar by Cheryl Strayed***
3) Wild from Lost to Found on the Pacific Crest Trail by Cheryl Strayed***
4) Lean In by Sheryl Sandberg***
5) My Beloved World by Sonia Sotamayor***
6) Divergent by Veronica Roth***
7) Allegiant by Veronica Roth
8) Insurgent by Veronica Roth
9) The Happiness Show by Catherine Deveny***
10) You Can't Pick Up Raindrops by John Charles Miller
11) An Abundance of Katherines by John Green
12) The Fault in Our Stars by John Green
13) The Sandcastle Girls by Chris Bohjallian***
14) Mornings in Jenin by Susan Abulhawa 
15) The Dressmaker of Khair Khana by Gayle Tzemach Lemmon
16) Drown by Junot Diaz
17) This is How You Lose Her by Junot Diaz***
18) Call Me By My Name by Andre Aciman
19) The Golden Compass by Phillip Pullman
20) Where'd You Go Bernadette by Maria Semple***
21) A Visit From the Goon Squad by Jennifer Egan
22) In Darkness by Nick Lake***
23) Let the Great World Spin by Colum McCann
24) Life After Life by Kate Atkinson
25) Paper Towns by John Green
26) Ava of the Gaia by G.E. Nosek***
27) Seating Arrangements by Maggie Shipstead
28) Enders Game by Orson Scott Card
29) How To Be a Woman by Caitlin Moran
30) Sharp Objects by Gillian Flynn***
31) The Glass Castle by Jeannette Walls 
32) The Imperfectionists by Tom Rachman
33) She's Come Undone by Wally Lamb***
34) The Dud Avocado by Elaine Dundy 
35) Cutting for Stone by Abraham Verghese 
36) The Sixth Extinction: An Unnatural History by Elizabeth Kolbert***
37) The Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao by Junot Diaz 
38) Ava Rising (Ava of the Gaia Book 2) by G.E. Nosek
39) All the Light We Cannot See by Anthony Doer***
40) Fifty Shades of Gray by E.L. James
41) The Girl on the Train by Paula Hawkins
42) Dark Places by Gillian Flynn***
43) Unbroken: A World War II Story of Survival, Resilience and Redemption by Laura Hillenbrand***
44) Outliers by Malcolm Gladwell
45) Travesty in Haiti: A true account of Christian missions, orphanages, fraud, food aid, and drug trafficking by Timothy Schwartz
46) Americanah by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie***
47) We Should All Be Feminists (An Adapted Ted Talk) by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie
48) All That Glitters by Alisa Valdes-Rodriguez
49) Better Off Without Him by Dee Ernst 
50) Not That Kind of Girl by Lena Dunham***
51) Boston Girl by Anita Diamant***
52) One Second After by William Forstchen
53) And the Mountains Echoed by Khaled Hosseini***
--
54) Serena by Ron Rash
55) Room by Emma Donahue***
56) Super Sad True Love Story by Gary Shteyngart
57) The Nightingale by Kristin Hannah 
58) Hard Boiled Wonderland and the End of the World by Haruki Murakami***
59) The Cuckoo's Calling by Robert Galbraith (aka JK Rowling)
60) Fates and Furies by Lauren Groff***
61) Nothing to Envy: Ordinary Lives in North Korea by Barbara Demick***
62) Euphoria by Lily King***
63) Modern Romance by Aziz Ansari
64) Redeployment by Phil Kaye 
65) This Town: Two Parties and a Funeral-Plus, Plenty of Valet Parking!-in America's Gilded Capital by Mark Leibovich
66) Between the World and Me by Ta-Nehisi Coates***
67) Father of the Rain by Lily King***
68) The Japanese Lover by Isabel Allende***
69) A Constellation of Vital Phenomena by Anthony Marra***
70) Half of a Yellow Sun by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie***
71) No One Ever Has Sex on a Tuesday by Tracy Bloom
72) The Sympathizer by Viet Thanh Nguyen
73) Nudge: Improving Decisions about Health, Wealth and Happiness by Richard Thaler and Cass Sunstein
74) The Audacity of Hope by Barack Obama***
75) Break in Case of Emergency by Jessica Winter



Post Panama: Lesson 1

It’s been 2 months and 13 days since I closed my Peace Corps service. The experts call this the “reintegration” phase and remind us that i...