Monday, October 28, 2013

On Manzanillo: it's not an apple, it's my home!


Guess what?!?! I found out my site and home for the next two years! It's a small pueblo (town) in the province of Monte Cristi in the northwest corner of the Dominican Republic in a site called Manzanillo. It's situated on the edge of a quiet beach with an unbeatable view of Haiti and an abundance of seafood. It's a port town with huge shipping boats entering and leaving with bananas on the daily (The next time you bite into a banana, think of me down here in Manzanillo because odds are it came from here!). We have minimal electricity and unreliable running water - but it's home!!!!! 

Last week everything happened rey rapido. Monday we showed up to work in the capital and were given folders with information for our future homes/sites! That afternoon I packed up my life and on Tuesday morning I left Pantoja with my two enormous suitcases and met my project partners, two Dominicans who came down from Manzanillo to pick me up and whom I will be working closely with to start education groups, health initiatives, nutrition classes etc. My project partners whisked me away (I made us stop for fried chicken and pasta salad on the go) and we hopped on a bus to my site. Six hours and three bus changes later (nothing happens as planned in the DR), we arrived in Manzanillo and I met my newest host family! And on Wednesday the adventure officially began and I was touted around and introduced to anyone and everyone in my new site. I've been here since Wednesday but am currently writing this on the bus as I head back to the capital to wrap up training and turn into a real Volunteer in three days!

Back to Manzanillo - I can't believe that this beautiful town in the top corner of the DR is my home now. I love my new host mom, Wendy, who is around 40, a great cook, childless, hilarious, a manicurist, and easy to talk to. She's campo married (meaning she's lived with her "husband" for a bunch of years so by default they're considered married) to a guy named Moreno who is chubby and loves to dance. We live in a quiet part of town and we've got awesome digs. Wendy was married to this Danish guy who built them this kick ass modern house then cheated on her and left her with the house and dogs (shes also unbelievably open with this information and doesn't mind that I'm sharing with yall). I have mixed emotions about all this. On the one hand I am glad this woman has a home to herself an a beautiful location especially when the majority of her family lives in shacks in the poorer part of Manzanillo, but on the other hand, she doesn't even have enough money to pay the monthly electricity bill of less than $15/month. Her family members seem to take advantage of her because they have some idea that her wealth is connected to the fact she has nice house. So it's a tough situation for Momma Wendy. But she's a bad ass with a tough character and great energy. She's been introducing me as her to everyone as her daughter but since her ex-husband was white, people actually think I'm her long-lost daughter. Awk. 

Last week was awesome for a number of reasons. 
1- Everyone in Manzanillo is warm and welcoming. 
Like in the campo, I have an awesome host grandma who always gives me juice when I come over! Her family is massive and I've been introduced to most of them so I feel like a welcome part of their home, which gives me a warm tingly feeling and the sentiment that I'm going to enjoy getting used to this place. 

2- I live on the border of Haiti and it's fascinating anthropological stuff up here. 
The majority of Haitians here are people who still live in Haiti and cross the border daily to make a living by selling fruit, clothing, shoes, jewelry etc. They can also be attended to at the hospital and the United Nations gives the hospital $2 for every Haitian seen so there is an incentive for Dominican medics to provide care. I point out this all out because the Haitians I've met so far in the capital and farther inland from the border are actually Dominican Haitians (Haitians born and raised here and haven't been back or set foot ever on Haitian soil). I have found that Haitians who grew up in the DR more inland were almost desperate to associate with Dominicans and reject their Haitian roots (probably because the racism here in the capital is so overt). I haven't encountered nearly as much racism up here by the border but I have yet to figure out if that's because they really are less racist on the border or if its just a different type of relationship. I asked my host dad and he just replied, "Theres not bad relations between us, we are all just people." I hope I find this kind of attitude all over, but we will see though. Up here, it's normal for a conversation to end with, "Okay I'm heading back to Haiti now, see you tomorrow." Casual. 

3- I live on the beach! 
And it's a quiet and tranquil and not tourist beach and it's beautiful! 

4- I understand why I am here. 
This is definitely a town that needs a health volunteer. Many people are overweight, almost every teenage girl I met had a child, none of the mothers had or were breastfeeding their infants, sexual health doesn't seem to be very prevalently taught in the high school, vegetables are extremely difficult to locate, and doñas don't have a great sense of hygiene when cooking and cleaning. And those are just things I've noticed  over the past five days. I've got my work cut out for me!

5- I went to a weekly doñas meeting at the Centro de Madre and felt so welcome!
I asked around and found out that Manzanillo already has a weekly meeting for the women in town. So I went all by myself and was warmly welcomed by women of all ages. They already want me to start teaching then about nutrition, sexual health, breast feeding, HIV/AIDS, hygiene. I feel supported by them already!

While last week was awesome for a lot of reasons, it was also overwhelming for a number of reasons. 

1- I left my comfort zone. 
To date, training has been pretty fun and very rewarding as I've spent everyday with fellow Americans and on a strict schedule learning technical health skills I knew I would be applying someday soon in the vague future. Since arriving in Manzanillo, I've been the only American around which leaves me exhausted and brain dead from continuously sticking my hand out and introducing myself to crowds of strangers and thinking in another language. The lack of schedule has given me an abundance of free time with which I've gone on runs, done yoga, read two books, sat on doñas' porches and drank more coffee than any human should ever ingest (even more than during finals period in college). It's now up to me to make my own schedule but its proving difficult when being new in town doesn't exactly lend itself to knowing where to go and who to meet. I'm not worried about finding my groove here though, I'm cut out for awkward small talk!

2- I will spend three months exclusively getting to know this community before I start forming groups and teaching official Peace Corps material. 
My first three months at site is meant exclusively for me to assess the needs of my community and built confianza (trust) with the people here. This means for three months I will be going house to house drinking coffee (which is hard because I drink it black without sugar and here they'll serve it to you with loads of sugar and I usually forget to remind them so I might get diabetes after these three months from all the sugar I'm downing on these porches) and conducting informal interviews to question about family, religion, education, environment, health, politics, etc. In these three months, I will be attending as many groups, church ceremonies, weddings, funerals, parties, reunions, etc as I can to show the community that I'm here and really trying to become a Manzaniera. I can teach cooking classes (gulp!), hold English lessons, form an exercise group, or another informal activity to get to know my community but my official projects will begin in February. It's a great system the Peace Corps has- they push for us to achieve true cultural understanding and integration before we try to impart our western/American wisdom into a community. Conducting this interviews and meeting my community members is going to be awesome (and rich, rewarding, fulfilling, integral) but my town is kind of big (5,000 people) so I am having a hard time deciding where to begin. I guess there's a silver lining here in that I can literally chose one of 700 houses to start with! 

3- My project partners rock, but they're super busy. 
As the new kid in town, it's nice to have a helpful friend to show me around. On Day One and Two, Licelot, my 21-year old Dominican counterpart/friend/work partner showed me around town introducing me to the high school principal, town mayor, hospital director, my grandma, the supermarket owner, among other integral community members. Licelot, however, has a 2-year old kid and goes to university in Santiago from Thursday through Sunday, rendering our productivity slightly lower than I had expected. My other counterpart, Richard, is a 21-year old guy who's just about to graduate high school and leave town in a month to study film in the capital rendering his investment in my integration null. But it's cool, I'm just gonna start to channel my internal bad ass/extrovert and start walking up to houses, sticking out my hand, and asking them to let me in for coffee and an interview. 

So, even though I admit I am a bit overwhelmed by this extreme life change I've just gone through (I know that moving to the Dominican Republic which was a whole new country and culture over two months ago might seem like a bigger deal, but to me, moving up here to Manzanillo and finally finally arriving at my site for two years was in fact more shocking to me), I am ready to swear in as a Volunteer and start the work I came here to do! I now have the unique opportunity to put the goals and objectives of the Peace Corps into action and form my own health projects in a small town in the northern part of the DR. And my god did I get an awesome site!!!

Until next time!

On a top ten list from the campo


A new top ten list from the campo!

1- I am obsessed with soap operas.
My favorite, La Patrona, just ended last week and I am torn up about it. The acting is horrible and the drama is daft but I am addicted. Unlike US shows, soap operas here only have one season and the TV station has free control over how long they want that season to run and when they want to repeat a section. Makes no sense to me but its a fine example of how an elite few control this facet of Dominican life.

2- Getting sick here is a real bummer.
I knew it was too good to be true. I didn't get sick- no diarrhea, common cold, weird rash, etc for the first seven weeks in country. And then, probably because I jinxed it, I got sick in a matter of days. I got a weird mix of all sorts of internal stomach problems, horrible body aches, and nasty eye goop. My host family was convinced it was the yogurt I ate from the factory down the road, but I'm 95% sure it was some random vegetable that was still contaminated or non purified water I swallowed in the shower. The common household remedies here are interesting. For diarrhea, my mom gave me a cup of coffee with half a lemon and a tablespoon of salt (read: gave me a laxative with acid for an upset digestive tract). For the common cold Mamí gave me cilantro tea with sugar for its "healing properties." For bloating I got licorice tea, and for a headache I got vanilla tea with salt.  People here have little access to health resources when they are sick and have learned to live with natural remedies for illness. Whether or not they work was unconfirmed by my bouts of sickness but I'll alert you when I find one that actually works.

3- Part of our project framework as Peace Corps Volunteers is to work on combatting non communicable diseases like diabetes, cardiovascular disease, and chronic respiratory illnesses.
This rocks! For the most part, the way to cure these preventable diseases is through diet and exercise. Part of my job is to create an appropriate way of doing this bearing in mind cultural differences surrounding obesity and nutrition. Many Dominicans don't want to lose weight because being fat is a sign that you can afford to eat and some truly believe that if they get their heart rate up enough, it might explode. I will be debunking these myths over the next two years. I have a really great opportunity here to work with community members on weight loss challenges, fitness groups, goal planning, and obesity prevention which affects almost one in four Dominicans. If any of you have workout ideas, nutrition plans, or other useful information- send it my way!

4- The United States government shut down while I was here and it was embarrassing to have to explain.
When I mentioned to Dominicans that our government shut down (thanks to those who kept me in the loop whilst this was all happening) they looked at me perplexed. First, they hardly cared, but since I'm a loud mouth, I told anyone who would listen (in basic Spanish terms keep in mind so I hope I did the ACA justice). Secondly, none of them understood why our government would rather shut down than provide citizens with access to health insurance. It doesn't make sense to me either. But in all seriousness, the gravity of the shutdown in our country will have detrimental effects on this country and my work here. For instance, I will be starting a project to make improved cookstoves that use less combustible and are safer for women and children because they eliminate harmful fumes that cause pneumonia and respiratory infections abundant in the DR. These stoves need to be heavily subsidized with grants from the US but because of this shut down business, I won't be able to apply for them for another 6-8 months, rendering a huge part of my job impossible. So to any legislators out there reading my blog (here's lookin' at you Joe Kennedy, returned Peace Corps Volunteer Dominican Republic) get your vaina together and fix this lio.

5- I should be a professional cow milker.
In Spanish the verb for "to milk a cow" is ordenear, que chulo! And did I ordené or what! We live next to a farm and our vecino invited us to try it one morning. Most newbies don't echar any leche but I got the milk to come out first try. After joking with everyone that I milked three whole cows and got five gallons out of it (really I milked 1/2 a cow's udder and got barely an inch of the bucket full) I told the owner he should hire me. He said he'd send over my contract but I'm still waiting.

6- Dominicans are afraid of the water and the sun.
Whenever I go anywhere here, the first thing my family asks is "Dónde está la sombrilla?" To which I reply - "It's not going to rain why do I need an umbrella?" And then you hear a chorus of neighbors and family members yelling- "Because the sun stings mija!" In a country where being dark skinned is considered worse than being of a lighter shade (read: albino white people are the "best" people), its no wonder no one wants to head into the full sun in the middle of the day (more to come on race issues in a next blog edition) It's incredible the versatility my umbrella has here. Dominicans (especially women who only wash/do their hair once a week) hate the rain because they despise getting wet. Most Dominicans have no idea how to swim either, adding to the great fear that rain will wash them away. And when you schedule a meeting and there's rain or beaming hot sun- there's a 100% chance no one will show up.

7- Kids don't go to school on days when their parents (read: mothers) do the laundry.
This seems absolutely ludicrous to me, but when the uniforms of children are being washed, the kids will excuse themselves from a day of school. I asked my host cousin why she didn't just use another uniform (a simple blue collared shirt and khaki pants for every public school in the entire country) and she told me that her extra was ugly. What a shame that the educational productivity of this country's children is linked to the laundry their parents do.

8- I'm finally used to having ten mosquito bites at any given time, lines of ants crawling on me, cockroaches in my bed at night, lizards sliming up walls in my house, flying beetles, and scary wasps. 
Unfortunately I don't think I will ever get used to the tarantulas. Yuck!

9- I'm almost sick of avocados.
It's hard to believe, it really is, but I eat at least an avocado a day- sometimes more. Avocado season is almost over so the good news is that I just have to aprovechar the time I have left with these delicious being and soon they'll be no more.

10- I love to dance.
Not really surprising, but I'm obsessed with dancing to bachata, merengue, salsa, dembow and reggaetone. It was a regular affair for us to dance until 2 in the morning with my host cousins, friends, and harmless tigueres on Fridays and Saturdays in the campo. To check out some of my favorite canciones, google Propuesta Idecente by Romeo Santos and Ayyy by Amara la Negra.

11- Going to the salon is an absolute ordeal.
Lots of Dominican women head to the salon once a week to get a good wash and valuable gossip time. So on my last day in the campo, I went with my sister and cousin. They lather, rinse and repeat- three times. Then it's off the the rolos where one's head is covered with rolls and stuck under the dryer, giving me the impression I'm stuck in old school chick flick. It's 45 minutes under the wretchedly hot dryer which burns like hell so I threw a fit and made them turn it off after fifteen minutes. Finally hair gets straightened then wrapped up in what's known as a tubie and trapped under a hair net to protect it from sun/sweat/rain. Women only take their hair out of the caps I they're going out, dancing, or showing off. The whole process took 3 hours. Torturous I tell you!

12- I cannot wait use a machete.
Machetes are used for just about everything- cutting firewood, mowing the lawn, opening a coconut, killing rats, etc. As a final community project, Mamí suggested that we cut the weeds and clean up the street with machetes. I was all for it, but unfortunately my compañeros weren't so thrilled by my valiant offer to use machetes and cut weeds. Instead we held a community Zumba class which was probably safer anyhow. One day I will report back on my advancing machete handling skills.

13- Not having Internet for five weeks was liberating.
Apparently we are the most tech savvy and dialed-in group the Peace Corps staff here has ever seen. Everyone has an iPhone, a computer, gadgets, kindles, iPads etc. and we are on them all the time. Being thrown into a campo without access to Internet changed all that for me. My computer broke day two in the campo and it hasn't been fixed nor am I in a huge hurry/need to do so. Unfortunately that left me writing this blog post on my iPhone, but definitely an inconsequential problem in comparison to others in the world. The majority of you will never get the liberating chance to disconnect for five weeks because the realities of our lives in a capitalist society don't grant us that freedom, but if you do, embrace it. Embrace the hundreds of conversations you will have uninterrupted by unexciting text messages and spam email alerts. Embrace the moments in which you wont have google to figure out who sings that one song, what jello is really made of, where in the world you are on a map, which republican is trying to ruin the country today, or how you can make icing without powdered sugar. It's a life changer and the creativity that comes with having to invent your own entertainment and enjoy the company of others is extremely gratifying.

14- I love the Dominican Republic.
Being in the campo gave me the chance to experience how the majority of Dominicans live and to see what my service in a small town will be like. Campesinos are friendly, warm, welcoming, sincere and compassionate and although they don't have much money or physical resources, they are truly happy and content people. I really love the culture, people, scenery, way of life, food, music, and even the crazy fashion styles that make me feel like this country is permanently stuck in the 80s. I feel blessed (all this church-going has really gotten to me) to have been placed in this vibrant and dynamic country for my Peace Corps service and I am excited to see what I can do here in two years. The Dominican Republic is my home now, I feel comfortable, happy and content to be exactly where I am. And after six weeks in the campo- I really truly feel like I can call it mi hogar.
So there you have it! My campo experience and six weeks of Peace Corps training in one blog post. Phew! And on Monday I find out the details of my site placement and home for the next two years. Then finally on Halloween we graduate from lowly Trainees to real living breathing Volunteers!!!  More to come later this week when I find out and head to my new site/home!

A baby from the campo! My nephew, Adrian!


Monday, October 21, 2013

On eating and befriending grandmas

It's been a while!!! I'm still living in the campo but we took an excursion to the beach today (google Playa Juan Dolio to live vicariously through me) and we got a few minutes of Wifi. Here's a short(ish) compilation of my life as a campesina. 

Let me start by saying that I absolutely love the campo. Highlights of the campo life include wide open spaces straight out of a Dixie Chicks song, cows in the middle the road on my way to work (this is 100% like the sheep that stop traffic once or twice a year in my hometown in Idaho but substitute cows for sheep and it happens everyday), chickens, dogs, cats and goats in my backyard,  a patio full of fruit trees, the sounds of crickets instead of 24-hour merengue, the smell of burning trash (okay jk this ones gross!), the tranquility, the sense of community, the avocados continuously gifted to me by neighbors, the donas who send my host mom leftover food because they know I'm around, the first name basis I have with everyone here, the cows I can milk in the morning (see photo evidence), and what's best are the fifty houses that make up my small campo community! Ah, I love it all. 

My host family and host community is amazing- the world's best host family and host neighbors. My mom- warmly known to everyone as Mami, my dad Pedro (called Viji by anyone who has known him more than ten minutes) and my host sister- Ani (who's 25) are the sweetest, funniest, funnest, coolest people in the DR. From the second I set foot in my community of El Portón (don't think you can even google this place it's so small) they made me feel right at home. I stepped off the bus and was greeted by hugs, kisses, cake, coffee and running water! 

What's more is my host mom is trying to fatten me up to fit in with the Dominicans (her words not mine) so I get the best and richest cooking around. Highlights include bollos (cornflower and coconut milk tamales), la bandera (rice, beans, meat), beets (enough said), avocados on avocados on avocados, avena (oatmeal), natilla (chocolate pudding made with real cow's milk), arroz con leche (sweet rice and milk), ayuama con huevos sancochado (pumpkin and eggs), la berenjena frita (fried eggplant), lechosa (papaya), morir soñando (orange juice and milk), and jugos de guayaba, chinola, avena (guava, passion fruit and oatmeal juice). Ahh I could stay here forever (or at least until the heart attack kills me). 

Enough about the food- let's talk about my set up. Nestled in the middle of two small towns off a nice dirt road 45 minutes from Santo Domingo- El Portón consists if one road, two small corner stores, one house that sells hair ties and calling cards from the front porch, two churches (Catholic (90%) and Evangelical (10%)), one dance patio (known fondly by the people  as 4-P (cuatro peh)), one gambling center, and supposedly 58 houses according to an informal census but I have yet to count more than fifteen. We don't have a school or a pharmacy or a restaurant but we've got glits and glam! My backyard even comes equipped with a beautiful outdoor shower shared by six neighbors and characterized by a cement box with a piece of tin roofing that is lifted and placed in front of the opening to serve as the door. Not to mention the outdoor kitchen we've got outback. And the patio of chickens/cats/dogs/lizards we keep. And the house wouldn't be the same without the five fruit bearing trees we tend to and make juice with- coconut tree, orange tree, manzana de oro, naranja agria, and passion fruit! My digs come complete with unreliable "24 hour" electricity and "running" water. It's not actually reliable at all and we seem to have water and light as often as we don't have it but the grid was established by an international development organization which gifted a lifetime of free water and electricity to community members. It's a huge benefit for the community but the electricity often shuts off for hours at a time (in a place where people expect 24 hour electricity this becomes a problem because people aren't ready/prepared in case the lights go). Also the water comes minimally so most people collect, purify (sometimes), and drink rainwater.  

Because I have been gone a while and cant possibly write about it all- Here's a top ten list of musings so far. 

1- Patricia, my host cousin/best friend here gave birth to a baby boy named Adrian. 
I don't really like babies because they frighten me but I have to admit that being a part of Patricia's life during the last few weeks of her pregnancy and the first few weeks of motherhood was amazing! Patricia is only 18 and her mom is only 37 but the two are a dynamic duo. Patricia is the kindest and most mature 18-year old I've ever met and it was awesome to be able to give her nutrition lessons and maternal health information as part of my work here. She really was interested and dedicated to learning about infant health, pregnancy, family planning, and nutrition. 

2- Celebrating Ani's birthday. 
My host sister turned 25 while I was here and it was great to be part of the celebration. She told me in passing that we were going to kill a sheep and I thought she was serious so I went around inviting all our extended family members to her sheep roast. As it turns out there's no sheep roast and apparently not ever family member was invited to the shindig. My family made fun of me for a week asking me what I was going to cook for all the guests I invited. I let them know I'd cook up a pork roast and now they're under the impression I actually have cooking skills. They've been sorely disappointed thus far. 

3- Becoming BFFs with Noelma. 
Noelma is my grandma here. She rules. She is Mami's mom and lives 2k away in the town of La Reforma. We have our technical training sessions everyday at a school in La Reforma and whenever I have a break I make sure to head to her house for her big smiles and awesome cooking. Since she knows I love avocados, she usually has a ripe one waiting for me and if not will usually ask the neighbors to gift me one! I made a big effort to get to know Noelma and it paid off. She introduced me to lots of other community members and all the extended relatives in our family. She's also a firecracker ready with sassy comebacks, witty sayings, and all the love a freshly aplatanada Peace Corps Trainee could take! 

4- The three most important issues to work on here pertain to water, environment, and teenage pregnancy. 
We visited a local hospital in the nearest town of Guerra where we met with a bad ass doctora. She walked us through the halls opening every door to every room without shame- exposing us to a pregnancy woman about to give birth, a newborn breast feeding, a child with diarrhea, and a man screaming in the emergency room. After the visit she thanked us for the work we will be doing and emphasized the need in this country for education on how to collect and purify water given that 1/4 Dominicans have diarrhea at any given time. Another huge problem in this country is the fact that everyone burns their trash here leading to respiratory diseases that she sees all the time in her practice. Finally, she lamented the alarmingly high teenage pregnancy rate. 1 in 4 women in the DR have been pregnant before age 20. I though back to my high school days and I knew maybe one or two people who had been pregnant. Here, I already know more than ten. 

5- Women expect men to cheat on them. 
This is definitely one of the hardest things to wrap my head around here. Every woman I talk to - be it a high school student, a teenage mother, an older doña, or an abuela talks openly about the sex their significant other has had with other women. Many even have second families- or another wife and child that they support on the side. As awful as it sounds, I have yet to find one woman who has not been cheated on by her boyfriend or husband. In the less educated areas (aka the campo) the stereotype is that a man can do whatever he wants and the woman must be obedient, available, and faithful. 

6- Gun control doesn't exist here. 
Once when I was in a dance hall- I went to the bathroom only to find a pistol in the sink "in case of a fight breaking out" I later learned. Well good thing because only a few days later during a patron saint dancing festival, someone broke out a gun and opened fire on the dance floor. One police was shot in the leg but thankfully no one else was hurt. 

7- Si Dios quiere. 
This phrase literally means "If God wants it" and Dominicans use it for everything. The response to "See you tomorrow" is always "Si Dios quiere." If you invite someone to a party, instead if saying yes, no or maybe- it's always "Si Dios quiere." This has made it particularly frustrating to plan meetings and events because no one takes accountability and just leaves it up to God's will. I've started retorting some of these with "Oh, Dios quiere" (Trust me, God wants it). Seems to do the trick. 

8- My hair can be done in any number of awesome ways. 
First there was my trip to the salon which was a riot because seven women were all cramped into a 10x10 box waiting for a deep wash, hair rolls and blow dry under the massive salon machines looking like an artifact from the 60s, then a straighten, topped off with a hair wrap and cap. To wash and dry my hair took two hours- not the most efficient thing I did with a Saturday but it was an awesome experience hanging with Dominican ladies and my BFF Patricia (the pregnant one). 
Fast forward a week later and my hair is in corn rows. My neighborhood friend did it for me and took twenty minutes to braid the top. Impressive! 

9- I've been going to church. 
Mostly just to spend time with the neighborhood doñas, I head to church on Sundays. It's usually a nice message that I can learn a lesson from or take away new Spanish vocab and it's a nice way to share time with my host mom and sister. 

10- Everyone has an apodo (nickname). 
Dominicans are born with one name but use another. Most of the bames are completely nuts and without reason (like the guy named Tresnoventa which literally means 390) and others are adopted from a persons physical traits (like my friend people call Flaca or Skinny). Other notable nicknames include Miracielos (Heaven Watcher), Feo (Ugly), Mami (her real name is Juana but she's the oldest child of 12 and aptly named Mommy), Viji (real name = Pedro), Ani (real name = Carmelina), the grown man named Bebe (Baby) and the trio of sisters named Uva, Piña and China (Grape, Pineapple and Orange). Then you've got the names that don't mean anything special like Monchi, Conena, Cirilo, Tatika, Tinita, Wande, etc. I guess even I have an apodo since I go by Bea here. My favorite part of meeting people is figuring out they're nicknames versus given names. I kept telling y grandma about my host dad Pedro and she finally stopped me to ask, "who's Pedro?" I looked at her confused and said, "you're son in law" thinking I was going nuts. "Ohhhh she said, you mean Viji." Gotta be careful with those apodos!

Also, send any notes, updates and noteworthy news from the states- I've been disconnected for quite a bit! 


Post Panama: Lesson 1

It’s been 2 months and 13 days since I closed my Peace Corps service. The experts call this the “reintegration” phase and remind us that i...